Mildred is up-in-the-air. It took a while to finish my roll-over jig, but it’s finally done now. A rotisserie – or roll-over jig – is most helpful if you do a full body restore. Sure, there are other ways to clean the underside and do some welding – but this is 1000 times more convenient. And while I am excited about the fact that it works out the way I hoped – I would advise against the DIY route I have taken.
Frankly, I stole the design of the jig by looking at many different one’s I found via a web search. I wanted something that I could easily take apart later for storage or transport. While I assume that I will use it to mainly work on Mini’s, MGBs and Midgets – who knows, maybe an E-type will come along someday. All of this seems to be possible with the Type 2 mobile jig from ADE Foreman Light Engineering
Now – it is only 370GPB + postage, but due to Brexit related import tax and shipping costs – it was initially a bit too much for my taste. And while it is possible to build it for a bit less – I tell you: DON’T bother. Buy one from ADE Foreman!!!
All-in-all I spent 291€ on material and 50€ for external help. To be precise: 128€ on 12meter of 50x50x3mm square steel tubing, 30€ on heavy duty castors from Amazon, 37€ on bolts, washers, nuts and a spring, 50€ on 3mm black sheet metal (100cm x 65cm), 26€ on pre-drilled 100x100x4mm anchor plates (Ebay) and 10€ a small piece of 28mm steel tube. Additionally, I also bought a few new metal drills, and I was fortunate to have access to a workshop with professional tools. I gave up counting the hours that went into the jig – and I haven’t even painted it yet. Two old shock absorbers from the trash pile at the body & paint shop act as pivot points and were welded into the crossbars while I was sick this week.
Again – in the end a nice blue ready build jig from ADE is better and looking back: The price it really fair.
Today I finally had the chance to put everything together and mount the MGB shell to it. As you can see, I drilled a oversizes hole on the mounting pieces. This allows the crossbar some degrees of flexibility which is important while fitting the car to the jig. I started by attaching both front and rear crossbars with some adapters (made from some scrap metal I had – room for improvement here…) to the front and rear bumper mounting points. Then I used my engine hoist to lift the front until the pivot point lines up with the base. Then I moved the hoist to the back and did the same there. Tightened all mounting bolts – job done.
I would like to brag about that I calculated all angles and precision-drilled the jig – but the truth is: I was just a lucky coincident that it all lined up. Next, I need to replace the creepy wooden dolly I made. DIY or ADE Foreman? Here we go again 😉